I have long been a fan of Jeffrey Steingarten - a Harvard- and MIT-educated lawyer-turned-culinary critic/columnist. The first article of his I remember reading was this absolutely lyrical piece on the perfect espresso - in
Vogue, of all places. He has two books,
The Man who Ate Everything, and
It Must Have Been Something I Ate: The Return of the Man who Ate Everything, which are both compliations of essays written for Vogue and other magazines. He is known for his "
strong opinions and obsessive techniques," and his articles about making the perfect bread, catching bluefin tuna so he can eat as much
o-toro as he wants, and yes - how salad is a silent killer - are all must-reads.
In case you're interested, the bit on espresso (reprinted in his second book):
The taste of espresso is bittersweet, with an initial impression of acidity. From your first sip, the aroma is intense and explosive. Afterward, you are left with a very pleasurable coffee taste that can last for half an hour. The predominant flavors are caramel, flowers (including jasmine), fruit, chocolate, honey, and toast - but only if you do everything exactly right. One false step and you are totally doomed. One false step and you will never taste the jasmine.
I almost applied to be his assistant a couple of years ago before I realized that I would technically be a freelancer for
Vogue - which meant no benefits and probably a crappy salary to boot. I very nearly did so anyways.
More videos with Jeffrey Steingarten, from Serious Eats